Anthony Bourdain, noted chef and world travel show host, opines that in order to really get to know a culture, you must visit the markets of the cities. There you can find the building blocks of a culture; it’s people, ingredients, and cuisine. One morning through the streets of Machane Yehuda, and you’ll see a glimpse into the cultures and histories of Israel barely contained by two main thoroughfares and a warren of connecting side streets.
Welcome to Machane Yehuda, the pulse of Jerusalem.
In the compound of the old train station in Jerusalem is a uniquely shaped restaurant. HaChatzer is a chef-owned restaurant far from the crowds on Emek Refaim and the center of town that offers a carnivorous feast to its guests. Not any old common grill house, but a meat restaurant worthy of the pilgrimage from wherever you might be in Israel.
Lag Baomer is a night devoted to bonfires throughout Israel in celebration of the mystic light of the teachings of Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai. Of course, as Jews, we’ll use anything as an excuse to eat. In this case, the evening turns into a bonfire cookout for the family. While “hot dog on a stick” might suffice for the younger kids, a little creativity and planning can go a long way to making this celebration a culinary treat for the grown ups as well.
While your first inclination might be to throw every piece of raw meat onto a grill or pan, some cuts simply won’t shine by cooking them that way. Lamb shoulder is one such cut. Long, slow cooking melts the tough, chewy meat into a tender slice of delicious.
I turned this into a meal by serving it with a simple risotto. The tomatoes that were braised with the lamb turned into a silky, flavorful garnish.
Yes, I have lamb on the brain, which all things considered, isn’t such a bad thing.
Drop a decent-sized potato on your foot, and you’re probably going to bruise a toe or two. But with a little boiling water, some flour and eggs, you can transform these dense little boulders into the most amazingly soft, tender, light and fluffy pillows of gnocchi. Tossed with butter Parmesan cheese and herbs, or in pan drippings from chicken or beef, and they seem to absorb flavor almost magically.
This isn’t exactly a throw-together meal, but your efforts will be rewarded.
If you share them, that is.
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Spices are at the core of our faith. A daily offering of no fewer than eleven spices were burned on the golden altar in the Mishkan and Beit HaMikdash. Spices fueled the circumnavigation of the globe. Over the years, the use of spices in cooking has shifted from masking the unpleasant taste of meat going bad [...]
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